Welcoming autumn at the Eastern Aegean -part 2

From Samos to Chios

I had to give an interview and act on camera for the new tv series “Generation of 17s” (Γενιά των 7, ΕΡΤ 3), explaining our project to younger ecologists. The tv series regards the 17 Goals of sustainable development set by the United Nations for 2030, starring young people in Greece who explorer of each goal (https://www.elculture.gr/blog/article/genia-17-stin-ert3-oi-syntelestes-tis-neas-ekpobis-pou-anazita-apantiseis-sta-krisima-zitimata-enos-kosmou-pou-allazei-katathetoun-tis-skepseis-tous/).

So I abandoned sailboat Lafri and the team at Kalymnos on Wednesday. I made my way to Athens and joined them again at Pythagorion, Samos on Sunday morning. As soon as we purchased a Turkish flag to abide by the rules in the Turkish territorial waters, we sailed off. The passage between Samos and Mykali is often without wind, but this time when the wind was too strong in the middle of the Aegean, it was the ideal route to take. So we sailed till dawn along the coast of Turkey, and we dropped anchor to sleep under the very slim crescent moon, resembling the one on the flag. We started sailing on Monday morning before dusk, and we covered the distance to Laggada, Chios, navigating between strong headwinds, side winds, and almost total lack of wind sometimes. The mountains sent the wind in all sorts of directions. The original Genoa sail showed its age and tore over one meter in length at the edge, so at Laggada we took it down and Sofia and Nicolas exercised their couturier talents . Everything went well and we were ready for departure to Lesvos on Tuesday morning.

From Laggada, Chios to Perama, Lesvos

Before finishing the sewing of Genoa, Nikolas’ friend Giorgos, a skipper, and Tania, came to help and it turned out that they have two used Genoas stored at the other end of Chios. Despite the fact that it was already late, they drove to bring them back and one was hoisted nicely on sailboat Lafri in the late evening. Meanwhile Despoina, of the “Tsopanis” cheese maker brought the samples destined for two different merchants in Athens. I had dinner and a long discussion with Giorgos Passas on our project and the prospects of floating wind turbines very far from the inhabited coast of Greece.  In the morning we started sailing the strait of Oinousses with very strong headwinds. The local inhabitants of the waters played with our boat for more than an hour. During the rest of the day we sailed through a whole range of conditions, from no wind and medium waves to strong katabatic winds close to Lesvos.

 We finally arrived at 23.30 and docked with difficulty in strong winds. Grigoris Gliglis was patiently waiting for us with Giorgos Zorbas, the editor of the local magazine’s “To Vima tis Gera’s”, and Dimitris Mytaros, another quality olive oil producer. We loaded 100 l of extra virgin oil but it was too late to go to a restaurant. Grigoris brought us delicious homemade food. We gave the interview and ended in our cabins in the small hours. The next morning, while having breakfast at a local café, we were surprised by the coast guard who announced that the central Lesvos service was to control our boat. A trained dog searched for drugs and declared the boat clean, the guard offered their excuses for the delay they had caused, and we sailed off to Eresos on the southwest of the island.

From Lesvos to Skyros

We dropped the anchor in the early evening in the famous bay of Eresos, home of the poet(esse) Sapfo of Lesvos, and where Nikolas’ father lives. Nikolas and Sofia came back with a provision of local dried figs and “hahles”, a local frumenty variety.  The next morning I started the day taking my daily dive in the sea and the moment I resurfaced I saw a huge dolphin jumping between our boat and the beach. I take it as a very good omen. Much later we sailed off to Skyros.

From captain Lucas notes // Samos-Chios-Lesvos, October 2021