A month at Aegean Cargo Sailing – Part 1

01.08.21
After a night sail under a clear sky full of stars the morning greets us with the sun coming up over the sea. As the fishing boats make their way back to port we continue with good wind towards Psara spending our time with Backgammon matches and taking care of Porto Candia that safely guides us through the waves. Arriving late in the evening we put anchor infront of Psara and use the last sunstrays to explore our new backyard. It almost seems like a ghost town, with many houses, as well as a church and hotel up on the hill, being abandoned. In a sweet little restaurant we toast to our successful passage and the many miles still to come.

02.08.21
We leave early in the morning setting sails for another 60nm passage towards Ikaria. Although the predictions were for the wind to go up to F7 we find ourselves on a flat sea. Slowly sailing, the fishing lines are getting unpacked and we are lucky to spend the hottest day in Greece this summer enjoying the slight breeze of the sea.

03.08.21
Around mid day we set sails towards Kirykos (Ikaria) where we will deliver our current cargo and meet Lisa and visit her store “Throubi” that is full of delicious local goods which are hard to resist.
Strolling around town we find ourselves in a beautiful restaurant in one of the side streets, once again diving into the national dishes of Greece. And so we spend our day in Ikaria, the timeless island, living by the handless clock.

04.08.21
On our way to Samos, the island of philosophy, we bypass Fourni. Looking at the houseless hills and valleys Captain Loukas tells us about its history, having served as habitat and shelter for pirates in the ancient days. With the sea to ourselves it is almost hard to imagine it being full of sailing vessels transporting goods in fear of conquerors. And as much as it impresses me I am relieved that nowadays our cargo is safe and sound, cooling in the fridge.
In Samos we moor in a tiny harbour in Marathokambo, immediately escaping the heat we hide under the trees on a rocky beach close by. In the evening we enjoy the life on the streets. In between laughter and traditional music the stray cats lurk for a fork of pity by the restaurant guests. Once again finding a delicious traditional restaurant, we take out of the menu the dishes we yet had not tasted. And just like that, with our sleepy eyes, another remarkable day ends and we prepare our beds outside on the deck, breathing the cooler air of the night.

05.08.21
Deciding to take a day off from sailing and to discover the island we make our way up the hills of Samos. Soon finding ourselves in a local store, stocking up on honey and dried fruits. In Pythagorio we spend our morning in the archeological museum. Whilst walking through the ruins of the Ancient City we get taken back to the history of Samos.
Around mid day we escape the enormous heat by visiting the Eupalinos Tunnel. Running through Mount Kastro it served as an aqueduct and nowadays is famous for being the second known tunnel in history which was excavated from both ends, and the first with a geometry-based approach in doing so. Feeling too tall for the first time and being thankful for the helmet we make our way through the narrow tunnel. The spotlights slightly shining on the stone walls, the fresh cool air, water dripping, and the metres of depth underneath our feet down to where the water used to flow create an impressive picture.
Once at the beach we cool off in the fresh sea. Whilst my eyes get lost in the sky Costi and Rosabelle dive and search for traces of ancient pottery and get creative with carving. After some time we can even listen to the sounds of a flute Costi made out of bamboo. To quote Captain Loukas: “An accumulation of talents!”
As the sun goes down we decide to continue our way but not before loading the trunk of our car with a big amount of trash that was left/washed up at the beach. I am impressed by how natrual this procedure is for my crew and wish for it to also become normality for all of us.
Our day aways on the terrace of a stunning restaurant on a hill that awakens the old greek gastronomic tradition of sitting together in good company, enjoying local dishes made with love and perfection.

What is meant by Slow-sailing:
When 90% of people would turn on their engine due to very little wind and patience and only the true sailiors, enjoying the timelessness of boatlife as well as the true sounds of the sea, stay with their sails up, slowly gliding towards their destination.

To be continued…

by Hannah Gruner, volunteer crew at Aegean Cargo sailing Voyage 2021